There are few dishes that capture the essence of French bistro cooking quite like steak frites. It’s simple, unfussy, and—when done properly—utterly sublime. For French chef Raymond Blanc, this dish isn’t just a menu staple; it’s a symbol of how good food comes from good technique, not necessarily expensive ingredients.
And that’s the secret: the perfect steak frites doesn’t begin with a pricey cut like fillet or ribeye. It begins with something far more modest—and far more flavourful.
Why Cheap Cuts Make the Best Steak
Forget sirloin or rump. If you want a steak with real character, look for bavette (flank steak) or onglet (hanger steak). These are classic boucher’s cuts—traditionally prized by butchers who kept them for themselves.
Both bavette and onglet have deep, beefy flavour, and while they can be tough if overcooked, they shine when seared hard and served medium-rare. As Raymond Blanc explains, these cuts are not only economical but more authentically French. The French value texture, flavour, and the joy of chewing, rather than the buttery softness prized elsewhere.
The Perfect Steak: Raymond Blanc’s Method
To cook bavette or onglet the Raymond Blanc way, start with quality meat. Look for well-marbled steak with a dark, mature colour. Allow it to come to room temperature before cooking, and pat it dry with kitchen paper—moisture is the enemy of a good sear.
Season generously with sea salt and cracked pepper just before cooking.
Heat a cast iron pan or heavy frying pan until smoking hot. Add a dash of neutral oil (like groundnut), then place the steak in the pan. Sear without moving it for 2–3 minutes to develop a dark, crusty edge. Turn and sear the other side for 2 more minutes. For a 2cm thick steak, this should yield a beautiful medium-rare.
In the final 30 seconds, add a knob of butter, a crushed garlic clove, and a sprig of thyme or rosemary. Baste the steak with the foaming butter, then rest it for 5–7 minutes under foil. Resting allows the juices to redistribute, keeping the meat moist and tender.
Don’t Skip the Pan Sauce
This is where the dish is elevated from good to magnifique. The beauty of Raymond Blanc’s steak frites lies in the use of a quick pan sauce, made in the same skillet used for the meat.
Once the steak is resting, pour off any excess fat, keeping the caramelised brown bits at the bottom. Deglaze the pan with a splash of red wine or Cognac, scraping up the fond. Add a little beef stock, reduce until syrupy, and swirl in a small knob of cold butter to finish. Season with salt, pepper, and perhaps a touch of Dijon mustard or shallot for richness.
This glossy, savoury sauce ties the dish together—and gives the humble bavette the treatment it deserves.
Frites: Crisp, Golden, Irresistible
Blanc insists that the frites must be crisp on the outside and fluffy inside—and not greasy. The secret? Use waxy potatoes like Maris Piper or Charlotte, and cook them twice.
Peel and cut into batons. Blanch in oil at 140°C until soft but pale. Drain and cool. Then, increase oil temperature to 180°C and fry until golden. Sprinkle with sea salt while hot.
If deep-frying feels daunting, oven chips can work—but for the true bistro experience, the double-fry method is king.
Bringing It All Together
Serve the steak sliced across the grain, drizzled with pan sauce, alongside a pile of hot, salted frites. Add a simple green salad with a sharp vinaigrette, and a glass of Côtes du Rhône or Bordeaux, and you’ve got bistro perfection on a plate.
Steak frites may be simple, but simplicity demands attention. With a well-chosen cut, confident searing, and a silky pan sauce, it becomes something greater—a dish that’s as French as it is timeless.
Bon appétit!
